Celine's Menswear Evolution: A Blend of Classics and Edge
Celine's menswear journey is a relatively recent phenomenon, having entered the scene just seven years ago with the appointment of Hedi Slimane as its creative director. Established in 1945 and acquired by LVMH in 1996, the French fashion house has been making waves in the menswear arena ever since.
The brand's headquarters on Rue Vivienne still bears the imprint of Slimane's influence, with Michael Rider's fall 2026 collection on display in the very rooms where Slimane made his runway debut as artistic director last July. While Slimane's signature pointy-toed Cuban-heeled boots and skinny jeans remain a part of Celine's DNA, Rider's collection introduces a fresh perspective.
Rider's approach is characterized by subtle yet impactful changes, infusing Celine's classic wardrobe with a unique twist. The collection showcases a harmonious blend of preppy elements, nods to past trends, and a distinct aesthetic that avoids brightness, stiffness, or high contrast.
Key features include slightly raised waists on belted wool coats, square-bottomed silk neckties, shiny gold buttons on a boxy melton blazer, and unconventional sleeve creases on double-breasted jackets. The presentation style, with garments hung on pegs, mirrors Rider's attention to detail, as he also displays scarves in Celine boutiques, deviating from Slimane's grand marble and Art Deco displays.
The collection's '90s influence is evident in the generous cuts of tailored coats, French blue dress shirts, and the use of moleskin for a camel coat. However, Rider's philosophy of offering options is showcased through an impressive array of stacked jeans and sweaters in various washed colors, reaching up to the ceiling.
True to his nature, Rider kept his explanation concise, stating, 'Classics with bite.' This succinct phrase encapsulates his design philosophy, emphasizing character over mere costume.
